Jet Ski Tournament & Games

About Jet Ski Games

"Jet Ski" became foremost the colloquial term for stand-up personal watercraft, because in 1973 Kawasaki was responsible for a limited production of stand-up models as designed by the recognized inventor of Jet Skis, Clayton Jacobson II.[2] In 1976, Kawasaki began mass production of the JS400-A. JS400s came with 400 cc two-stroke engines and hulls based upon the previous limited release models. It became the harbinger of the success Jet Skis would see in the Jetters market up through the 1990s. In 1986 Kawasaki broadened the world of Jet Skis by introducing a two person model with lean-in "sport" style handling and a 650 cc engine, dubbed the X-2. Then in 1989, they introduced their first two passenger "sit-down" model, the Tandem Sport/Dual-Jetters (TS/DJ) with a step-through seating area.

For 1992 Kawasaki updated their stand-up line with the JS750 featuring a more stable hull and more power. In 2003, Kawasaki celebrated the Jet Ski brand by releasing a special 30th anniversary edition of its current stand-up model, the SX-R, which has seen a revival of interest in stand-up jetskiing. The X-2 has also been updated, based on the SX-R platform and re-released in Japan. Kawasaki continues to produce three models of sit-downs, including many four-stroke models.

The four-stroke engines have come on since 2003; with the help of superchargers and the like the engines can produce up to 260 horsepower (190 kW) as seen in the newly released Kawasaki Ultra 250Xand Sea-doo RXP, RXT and RXP-X.

As the riding of personal watercraft evolved through the 1990s, other companies like Yamaha, Bombardier and Polaris joined the sport to make it into a worldwide sport in both racing and freestyle.


Closed Course Racing

It is a form of jet skiing with up to 20 riders competing to finish first. The course is defined by red buoys (indicating left turns), yellow buoys (for right turns), a start line and a finish line. The start line is typically right at the shore with three poles and a rubber cord. Usually an event has two motos making up the day's event.

The IJSBA closed course racing began in the 1980s with Brian Bendix, Larry Rippenkroeger and Dave Gorden who primarily rode 440cc and 550cc stand-up models. Soon Jeff Jacobs (of El Cahon, CA) came in and dominated the sport for years.

From 1992 to 1996 the sport reached its peak of popularity. Some of the most successful riders of that period included Jeff Jacobs, Chris Fischetti, Minoru Kanamori, Victor Sheldon, Tom Bonacci, Chris MacClugage, Frank Romero, Bill Pointer, Dustin Farthing, Mike Yellich and Derek Punchard. Many strong factory teams equipped their athletes with the biggest and baddest equipment available, and Budweiser sponsored the IJSBA Bud Jet Sports Tour with stops in ten US cities (Dallas, Chicago, Virginia Beach, etc.)

Today the APBA holds several events throughout the race season that allows riders to qualify for the IJSBA World Finals (held in Lake Havasu, AZ) which is considered to be the Super Bowl of Jet Skiing. Although the US athletes are still dominate the sport, racers come from all over the world, including France, Japan, Kuwait, Thailand, Argentina and Brazil. For 2009, the reigning world champion is Craig Warner, sponsored by Kawasaki, Monster Energy, Bomber Eyewear and Hydro-Turf.

There are four classes: beginner, novice, expert and pro. Usually the racers are divided into two engine sizes: one at 700cc max and another up to 1200cc max. There is a men's race and a women's race.
excerpt from wikipedia


Nearest event

October 10-18, 2009 The event is 2009 quakysense -World Finals Lake Havasu City, Arizona, USA

2009 IJSBA World Finals Classes

The following shall be the competition classes for the 2009 World Finals. This list contains the traditional World Finals classes as well as classes that have been added over the past few years to meet the needs of the contemporary market. Below the class list you will see a guide that describes some of the terms in the class list.

Pro Classes
Pro Ski
Pro Runabout
Pro Freestyle

Pro Am Classes
Runabout Stock
Runabout 800 Superstock*
Ski Stock
Women’s Ski Limited
Pro Am Veterans Ski Limited*
Pro Am Runabout Limited (Formerly: Four Stroke Limited)

Expert Classes
Expert Ski Limited
Expert Runabout Limited
Expert Veterans Ski Open

Amateur Classes
Amateur Freestyle
Amateur Ski Open
Amateur Runabout Open
Amateur Ski Lites
Amateur Veteran’s Ski Limited
Amateur Runabout Veteran’s Runabout Open
Amateur Runabout Lites (Formerly Four Stroke Runabout Stock)
Amateur Runabout 800 Superstock*
Amateur Runabout 800 Limited*
Amateur Runabout Classic Stock*
Amateur Runabout Classic Limited*
Amateur Runabout Classic Open*
Amateur Ski Classic Two Stroke Limited*

Novice Classes
Novice Ski Stock
Novice Ski Limited
Novice Runabout Stock
Novice Runabout Limited
Novice Women’s Ski Limited
Novice Veteran’s Ski Open

Junior Classes
Junior Ski 10-12 Stock
Junior Ski 10-12 Lites
Junior Ski 13-15 Stock
Junior Ski 13-15 Lites
Junior Ski 13-15 Limited
Junior Runabout 14-15 800 Limited*

Other Classes
Master’s Ski Open
Master’s Ski Stock*
Sport Modified*
Women’s Runabout
GP Ski
GP Runabout
Sport Spec

Be there to support this games....

Know the rigging activity - Laser Sailboat

Rigging the Laser

The Mainsheet
Most top sailors use the metric size between 1/4" and 5/16", 10mm. Yale light or something similar runs through the blocks nicely. 44’ with an eight knot 4" from the end leaves a short tail to grab if it is let out to the ratchet accidentally. The new autoratchets are great and really help the sheet go out for aggressive downwind sailing. Mainsheet cleats are also good, especially for getting the vang on. The little Ronstan minis aren’t too painful to sit on and hold the sheet well.

The Vang
A swivel at the base is necessary, ideally one with bearings that rotates easily. Some swivels have 1/4" pins, so the vang tang needs to be drilled out to accept this. The other way to go is to get bushing washers and use a standard 3/16" pin, so the vang can be taken from boat to boat easily. The pin may bend a little, so it is good to have a few spares. 3/16" Samson spectra should be tied so when the bowline purchase hits the block at max ease it causes a little tension on the boom. This ensures a full range of travel. (If there is so much slack that the vang is easy to hook into the boom, it won’t be possible to get enough vang tension in breeze.) A slip-knot loop handle is a must, and some people have a tail after that to tie to the daggerboard so it can always be reached. (see diagram)

The Outhaul
3/16" Samson spectra with two thimbles, 22’ a hitch around the long part (from cleat to mast) included in the knot that holds the front thimble works great to keep the whole thing up. (Diagram)

The Clew Tie
Many sailors are used to either a bolt-roped foot or an outhaul car, something that makes the clew travel along the boom without going up. It’s important to teach that the clew tie effectively makes a track for the clew, and tying it snugly to the boom is the hallmark of a careful job rigging. 1/8" Samson spectra 30" Three laps around boom allows tying a square knot tight enough. McLube the boom and tie down before every race day so it slides well.

The Cunningham
3/16" Samson spectra with two loops. There are diagrams with three loops, but the added friction offsets the purchase gain. The top bowline placement is critical for max travel. (Diagram)

The Traveler
3/16" vectran, 9’. A large loop bowline that the line runs through with a single hitch allows the loop to be pulled very tight and is relatively easy to unrig. (Diagram)

Hiking strap
May need to be shortened so there is room for enough adjustment. A 10-12" between the aft edge of the cockpit and the strap is good.

Strap bungee
1/8", about 2’ depending on strap. Makes a loop through strap and under traveler behind cleat. A square knot will eventually come undone. Tie overhand knots in each tail and push them tight against the square knot.

Strap Adjuster
6’ of 3/16" pre-stretch (spectra is too slippery), looped around and back. (See diagram)

Battens
Those little ends like to come off and get stuck in the sail. Glue them on

Tell tales
Three sets: one for upwind near the luff, one in the middle of the top third of the sail, and one for by the lee two feet in from the leach. Light yarn works nicely because it isn’t too jumpy.

Wind Vane
A windvane or long yarn in front of the mast is great for light air when it’s shifty and for learning angles downwind.



The Rigging Activities
A Laser sail flapping in the wind is getting old quickly. The batten pockets are screaming, the cloth is deteriorating, and the stitching is strained. When possible, the sail should go up only when ready to go sailing, and should come down when the boat won’t be sailed for a while. The hardest place to rig is with the boat already in the water.

1. Check stern plug!

2. Launch

3. Daggerboard in, but not bungee on yet — it will be in the way of the mast step.

4. Tiller into rudderhead and tied before getting on boat. This reduces chance of losing rudder while putting it into the gudgeons. Rudder on

5. Mainsheet rigged completely through boom.

6. Outhaul through boom cleat and back eye with tail free and ready, and purchase loop laid out on deck around maststep

7. Mast together — a wrap or two of packing tape so the pieces fit tightly is good. The rivet should be pointed directly back. Get the collar just started in the bottom section and stand the mast up. Lift it and lightly tap it down on the ground. The weight of the top section will push it into the bottom section with a few taps. If the mast has a permanent bend, DO NOT STRAIGHTEN IT, flip the ends (see setting up the Laser)

8. Sail on mast, battens in, vang pinned on. Rigging Tip: put pin through from port to starboard so the last part of the cunningham doesn’t catch on the ring-ding.

9. Rig cunningham

10. Step mast — if there are many boats in the water side by side so the boat can’t be pulled along the dock, this is a two person job: one person is on boat behind mast step on knees to hold mast butt in place and help pull mast up, while other person walks mast upright and steps on bow pushing mast up.

11. Rig the tail of the cunningham through the eye and cleat immediately and pull a little tension on. This helps keep the sail from twisting on the mast, and ensures that in the unlikely event of a water landing the mast doesn’t come partially out and destroy the maststep. Make sure the bowline handle tied in the tail of the cunningham only allows enough slack for the luff tension to be released and no more. IF THE BOAT CAPSIZES WITHOUT ENOUGH CUNNINGHAM AND THE MAST COMES OUT A LITTLE WHILE RIGHTING, THE MASTSTEP TUBE WILL BREAK.

12. Most people put the boom on the gooseneck pin, then try to catch the flapping clew and rig the outhaul while standing on the poopdeck. It likes to fall off that little pin, and having it on makes the sail want to fill, compromising balance. Instead, stand in the cockpit and bring the end of the boom forward so it reaches the sail easily without it filling. Rig the outhaul set at max ease, and rig the clew tie down. Then push the boom back and put it on the pin, being careful to get the parts of the cunningham around or on one side of the gooseneck properly.

13. Hold boom down and put vang key in boom. On the way off the boat, tie the board bungee to the bow eye — YOU’RE DONE!

Rigging on dolly, dock, beach, or grass

1. Begin with step 6, do not rig mainsheet

2. When rig is up with cunningham and outhaul on, rig mainsheet backwards through ratchet, front boom block, eyestrap, and back block. Tie a slip-knot. Now the sail can rotate in front of the boat if necessary, but the sailor can sheet in from the ratchet to get the boom around the parked camels and other obstacles in the boatpark.

3. Daggerboard is placed with the top forward edge in the aft bottom corner of the cockpit. This prevents the tip from breaking when the bow is lifted for launch - a very good habit

4. If the boat will be launched down a ramp, rig the tiller and rudder together tied down, and place rudder blade under traveler, with tiller pointed forward and traveler tight. Slide rudder back until nut on rudder head is held forward by traveler. If wind allows, finish rigging mainsheet. Wheel boat down ramp and when transom reaches end, turn boat 45 degrees and put one foot against dolly wheel, reach back and drop rudder in.

5. If the edge of the ramp is well carpeted, the bow can bet set down off the dolly and the board dropped in too, and the bungee can even be tied. If not, the bow is set in the water and the boat turned sideways to the ramp to put the board in. If the wind is blowing away from the ramp, the advanced technique is to simply step on and push off, putting the board in while floating away from ramp. It’s important to stress that efficiency and etiquette on the ramp will earn respect and help prevent congestion.

6. If the boat will be launched from a shallow beach with the wind offshore, leave the mainsheet as is (with slipknot) and put the rudder in the gudgeons with the blade up (the bolt should be big and tight enough that it stays up). Wheel the boat backwards into the water and slide off dolly, push rudder down a little and step on to drift away from beach with boom out in front of boat. Put blade in when deep enough and when clear push rudder down and go head to wind to finish rigging mainsheet.

7. The most difficult launch is off a shallow beach with the wind onshore. This often means there are waves to contend with, and one has to sail upwind with very little blade or rudder in the water. Wheel the boat along the beach to begin on the lifted tack away from beach if there is limited area to the side (a pier, breakwall, moorings, etc.) Rig the mainsheet completely, and put the boat just off head to wind on the correct tack. Put the daggerboard in and tie the bungee to hold it up. Put the rudder down just below horizontal. Wheel the boat into the water bow first, being careful to keep it just slightly off the wind so the boom doesn’t hit the board. When the boat is floating, turn the front of the dolly into the wind and slide the boat forward off the dolly. It helps to have someone hold the dolly back as the boat is slid forward. Push the board and rudder down as far as possible, step in and balance well since there’s not a lot of rudder in the water.

Laser Saiboat - an introduction

Down on a memory lane - Laser Sailboat

The Laser was launched to the public in 1971 at the New York Boat Show. It was designed by Bruce Kirby with simplicity and performance in mind, and quickly became the quintessential one-design. The Laser is sailed all over the world, and there have been over 160,000 Lasers built as of May, 1998. There are currently builders in Rhode Island, USA, England. At 13 feet 10.5 inches long with a 12.5 foot waterline and 76 square feet of sail, the Laser has enough power to glide in extremely light air and blast along in a stiff breeze.

The original name for the Laser prototype was “Weekender,” which is why sailmaker Hans Fogh used the insignia “TGIF,” as seen in the photo of hull #1 at right.

The Laser’s flush deck, minimal beam (4.5 feet) and low freeboard (12 inches) were designed to keep the hull weight to a minimum (average 130 lbs) and to allow simple car-topping and easy handling on shore by women and junior sailors. The innovative “place for your feet” cockpit means the boat ships very little water, and comes up completely dry when righted after a capsize. The Laser’s two-piece mast and sleeved sail are in keeping with the goal of simplicity, and also help to make car topping simple.

In the mid-1980s the Laser Radial Rig was developed and in 1988 the Laser Women’s World Championship was sailed in the new Radial Rig for the first time. The Radial mast uses the same top section as the “full rig,” and a shorter and more bendy bottom section. The sail is 18% smaller (62 sq. feet) than the full rig, but the center of effort of the sailplan is much lower. This means the Radial rig generates more power relative to heeling force than the full rig and so for lighter sailors allows performance and handling far better than they can achieve with the full rig. When it is quite windy, the Radial rig is faster upwind!

The Laser Radial is unquestionably the best training boat for Laser Olympic aspirants who are still growing. In fact, the winner of the 1993 Radial World Championship, Ben Ainsle from England, went on to win a silver medal in the 1996 Olympics in the Laser. The Laser Radial is also a great boat for Europe Dinghy sailors who want to do as much close racing as possible. The Laser Masters events are very well attended and enjoyed by keen and competitive veterans of the class who have built friendships around the world over the years of their Laser sailing.

Recent rigging innovations make the Laser easier and more enjoyable to sail, and better to race. One used to have to stand up in the boat after the leeward mark and jump down on the boom while taking the slack out of a 3-1 vang to get enough tension! Now, with an 8-1 slippery spectra line swiveled vang, more than enough can be pulled on from a hiking position. Tillers with rollers allow a helm with great feel. Loops in the outhaul allow it also to be adjusted while hiking.

Laser racing is arguably the most competitive and close sailboat racing in the world. Still, the real beauty of a Laser lies in its invitation to go sailing for the pure joy of it. With no standing rigging to bother with, no obstacle course of fittings to bruise and cut, no cockpit full of water, the bare essentials of tiller, mainsheet, and sailor can come together to feel the magic of the wind and water cast its spell.

Scuba Diving..give it a try

Tips from Lois Friedland on How to Start Scuba Diving, Explore underwater coral gardens or
swim with dolphins and sharks

At some resorts scuba divers can just walk offshore, sink downward 30- to 40-feet and be in a coral garden or swimming through a school of fish. Once you’ve learned to scuba dive, you can also arrange to swim with dolphins in the ocean or protected bays, and even take a highly structured dive with the sharks. But before you start scuba diving alongside coral walls that are 90-feet deep, or with dolphins or sharks, there's a lot you need to learn. Here’s an quick primer outlining how to get started.

Ways to Get Certified for Scuba Diving

Take a scuba-diving course in a pool near your home, then follow your dive master’s suggestions for the open water dives required before you can be certified. The choice for an open water dive can range from the Blue Hole, a frigid “hole” that is part of a New Mexico cave system to the underwater coral gardens in the Cayman Islands and Bonaire in the Caribbean.

Wrap a vacation around getting certified. You can take a scuba diving course anywhere from the Cayman Islands in the Caribbean to Hawaii or Fiji, depending upon how exotic a trip you want to take. Keep in mind that if you plan to take the full certification course during a week-long trip, there probably won’t be much time to do anything else, including laze on the beach or explore the locale.

Take a resort course. These scuba diving certification courses range in length from one-day to three-day courses. If you take the shortest course, which usually includes a shallow dive in the afternoon, understand that your training is limited. Even the two- and three-day courses don’t give you as much experience in dealing with underwater emergencies as the full courses offered by PADI and NAUI, two of the major scuba-diving certification operations.

What’s it going to Cost?

The cost of a scuba-diving certification course varies considerably, depending upon where you are taking your certification course. If you take a course in a pool near your home the cost of getting to where you’re going to take an open-water dive for final certification will impact this price dramatically. The two- or three-day resort courses can cost several hundred dollars. Hiring a private tutor at a hotel to take a full certification course, which can take up to a week, is much more expensive. But, doing all of your book work sitting in a lounge chair beside the ocean is a really great way to study.

Where to Learn More

On the About.com scuba diving website, there's an excellent article by Jay Umbenhauer outlining questions to ask before you get certified. For specific details about learning where to get certified for scuba diving read how to get certified, by Clint Leung who is a NAUI certified Master and Rescue Scuba Diver.

Kayaking: Some facts about the sport

Some facts about Kayak

More and more people are taking up kayaking as a hobby or recreational sport.

Each year, more people find the time to start kayaking, whether they do it as a sport, as a hobby, or just for fun while they're on vacation. Unlike some other recreational activities or sports, kayaking can fit the activity level that you want and can provide hours or even days of fun for entire families - or just for one person.

Kayaking originated with the Inuit people who lived in the Arctic region of North America. It is essentially a specialized type of canoeing done in a specially designed canoe. The original kayaks were made out of seal skin and wood, and were meant for only one person. Today, there are many different types of kayaks made out of several different materials. There are even kayaks that have been built for two people!

The one-person kayak has room for one person to sit inside of the boat comfortably. Then, there is usually a skirt that goes over the top to keep water out of the boat. Kayaks use a double-sided paddle instead of a regular canoe paddle, and are designed to be easily righted if flipped.

Anybody can enjoy kayaking, since the sport has so many different facets. For instance, if you're just looking for something to do for fun while you're on vacation, then you'll probably want to go kayak touring. Touring can be fun for the entire family as it is a calm, sightseeing experience. These are usually where the multi-person kayaks are used. While these kayaks are usually a little harder to maneuver, that is not as important in a location that has calm water. Plus, it's more fun to share your experience with another person!

For the more brave, there are some more extreme kayaking activities, including whitewater kayaking, sea kayaking, or even kayak racing.

On this website, you'll be able to find information and advice about all of the different types of kayaking. You will also be able to find articles and information about related topics.

Whether you know exactly what you want more information about regarding kayaking, or you're not quite sure, you should be able to find what you're looking for on our site. Feel free to browse.

Launching a kayak

Launching your kayak does not have to be difficult as long as you know what you’re doing.
When it comes to launching your kayak, there are a few important decisions that you must make. The first thing you should decide is whether or not you want to launch your kayak from the land, or on the water. You can even launch your kayak from a dock, though that is usually a bit harder to do than launching the boat from the beach, or on dry land.

The two main methods of launching your kayak from the land consist of the regular launch, and of “wet-footing” it. Wet footing means that you load up your kayak in the water so that the bottom will not rub against the sand or rocks that might be on the beach. You should definitely use this method to launch your kayak if you are going to be launching from a rocky beach, or any other situation where there might be objects that can harm your kayak in the sand.

After all, while most kayaks are generally designed to be fairly sturdy, it is always possible that they could be damaged. This is especially the case if they are loaded up on land, and then dragged over rocks. When launching your kayak from the water, you should make sure that you are able to put everything into your kayak that you want to use. You should probably load the lighter objects into your kayak when you are still on land, as well, since they won’t cause any extra harm to your kayak, and it will make getting in a lot easier once you are in the water. If you decide to try launching your kayak this way, make sure that you practice a little bit first. That way you’ll be able to get into your kayak quickly and easily, and you won’t fall.

If you think that this method sounds too complicated, some people find that it is easier to get into their kayak on dry land. However, you should only use the dry land launch if you are on a sandy beach where there are no major obstacles between yourself and the water. Then, pull your kayak out so that the bow is actually floating. This is so that you will not have to drag your kayak over too much sand before you get into the water.

Keep in mind that launching your kayak can get a lot more dangerous and difficult if you are launching in an area where there is a lot of surf. While it is always possible to launch a kayak in high surf, you’re probably better off avoiding this. Therefore, you should try to find a beach that is sheltered for launching your kayak.

Know your type of Power Boats

Some info on Power Boats

Power boats are the most popular boats sold. Their designs are as varied as their uses. Those with seating in the front are called bowriders. Many of these boats are used for towing skiers or rafts. Want to do both? There are ski and fish combinations that let you do both.

Types of Powerboats

Inflatable Boats
Short five- and six-footers are used as dinghies. Mid-sized models in the 12- to 18-ft. range are more durable, have more interior space, and can handle an outboard; such mid-sized models can carry several passengers and serve as runabouts. Newer, hard-hull (or rigid) types of 20 ft. and over take moderate power and work well near and offshore. The "smalls" are easily transported; the "bigs" can be trailered.

* Sizes range from four ft. to low-20s.
* Price Range: $1,000-$20,000+
* Most are compact and don't require a trailer and can hold 1-4 people

Folding Boats
Made to store, then unfold and float, these consist of lightweight frames that are covered by fabric or plastic.

* Sizes range from 6 to 10 ft.
* Price Range: $1,000-$3,000+
* Most are trailerable and can hold 1-2 people

Bow Riders
All-purpose runabouts with extra seats and forward access to the bow, a convenient spot to relax and sun. Outboard or stern-drive power. Smaller versions are fine for water skiing; larger versions allow some camping. All are suited to short-distance cruising.

* Sizes range from mid-teens to upper 20's.
* Price Range: $5,000-$30,000+
* Most are trailerable and can hold 1-5people

Runabouts
Feature open or closed bows, outboard or stern-drive power, and mostly vee-hulls. Fun for water skiing and wakeboarding, fishing, cruising, sunning throughout the day. Some add camper canvas to allow overnights. Probably the most popular fiberglass boat made, though some are aluminum construction.

* Sizes range from mid-teens to upper 20's.
* Price Range: $10,000-$40,000+
* Most are trailerable and can hold up to 8 people

Pontoon Boats
A pontoon boat is ideal for someone who likes to party. Large and stable, pontoon boats are most often used for parties and fishing. Two tubes, usually aluminum, under a stable deck surrounded by railings and powered most often with outboards. Often covered with a canopy, featuring plenty of seating space (sometimes convertible to sleepers). Good for fishing, swimming and sunning.

* Sizes range from mid-teens to low-30s.
* Price Range: $10,000-$40,000+
* Most are not recommended for trailering and can hold up to 10 people

Deck Boats
Feature a one-level deck throughout and often rails or gunnels all around, all built on a performance hull. Multi-purpose craft that serve anglers, swimmers, sunbathers, evening social cruisers, and folks at the dock. These are stable craft. A number of guests will find room to enjoy being aboard; six friends on smaller versions, eight to ten on larger ones. Some have small cabins. Most often outboard powered, though some feature stern drives.

* Sizes range from mid-teens to low-30s.
* Price Range: $15,000-$40,000+
* Most are trailerable and can hold up to 10 people

Cuddy Cabins
Small cruisers with compact cabins to camp, do some simple cooking, and get out of the weather. Outboard or stern-drive power. Great day cruisers and overnighters for small groups. Also used on big water for trolling for fish.

* Sizes range from mid-teens to low-30s.
* Price Range: $15,000-$60,000+
* Most are trailerable and can hold 1-5 people

Waterski Boats
Powered by inboards, these "throw" a perfect wake for very serious water skiers and wake boarders. Used at tournaments and for training. Passengers usually include the driver and a "spotter." Range from about 18 ft. to the mid-20s. (Trailerable; 1-5 people)

* Sizes range from mid-teens to mid 20's.
* Price Range: $15,000-$50,000+
* Most are trailerable and can hold 1-5 people

Fish and Skis
Interior layouts of these craft allow boaters to enjoy the two most popular on-water activities. Have enough power, usually outboard, to pull a skier or two, and to get to the fishing spot in short order. Storage allows taking skis and tackle. Three or four can ride and fish in lengths from teens to upper 20s. (Trailerable; 1-5 people)

* Sizes range from mid-teens to mid 20's.
* Price Range: $10,000-$30,000+
* Most are trailerable and can hold 1-5 people

High-Performance Boats
Designed for speed, these can be deep-vee or catamaran-hulled craft with big power. Creature comforts are included in the cockpit and below decks; fishing craft are more spartan. Outboard and stern-drive power, often sophisticated engines, can push even larger craft to speeds in the 60-mph range, sometimes faster.

* Sizes range from mid-20's to 50+.
* Price Range: $40,000-$400,000+
* Some are trailerable, but most should be moored.
* They can hold up to 6 people

House Boats
These are the recreational vehicles of the water, with wide beams and cabins that cover most of the deck. Inside are private staterooms, a head or two (with shower), a big galley, and eating and entertainment areas. Generally used on calm bodies of water, though some with modified vee-hulls are found on big rivers and the Great Lakes. Fiberglass or steel hulls are common. Even the small house boats that start about 30 ft. are spacious.

* Sizes range from 30 to over 70 ft.
* Price Range: $40,000-$600,000+
* These are not trailerable and can hold 10 or more people

Motor Yachts
All the amenities of home in a traditional vee-hulled craft for gracious cruising or entertaining at the dock. A number of design variations offer more aft deck space for fishing, private aft cabins, sunning space on flybridges or on front decks. Fiberglass and aluminum hulls, sophisticated electronics, choice of gas or diesel inboard power in singles or twins.

* Sizes range from mid-30's to over 70 ft.
* Price Range: $60,000-$1,000,000+
* These are not trailerable and can hold 8-12 people

Trawlers
These sit high in the water, atop stable hulls that get there in comfort, leisurely. Boast big cabins and all the creature comforts. Handle big rivers, lakes and oceans on moderate days.

* Sizes range from mid-30's to over 60 ft.
* Price Range: $60,000-$1,000,000+
* These are not trailerable and can hold 6-12 people

Sailing, sailing

Simple facts about sailing

Sailing is the art of controlling a boat with large (usually fabric) foils called sails. By changing the rigging, rudder, and dagger or centre board, a sailor manages the force of the wind on the sails in order to change the direction and speed of a boat. Mastery of the skill requires experience in varying wind and sea conditions, as well as knowledge concerning sailboats.

In most countries people enjoy sailing as a recreational activity. Recreational sailing or yachting can be divided into racing and cruising. Furthermore use of sailboats can be divided into long-distance sailing (also blue-water sailing or offshore sailing) and daysailing.

Over the thousands of years people have sailed, many different kinds of sailboats have been designed for different purposes. Choosing the right boat for your own uses involves considering hull types, construction, and many other factors.Sailing is both a fun recreation and serious sport. Regardless of the many differences in size and type, all sailboats work the same way to harness the wind for propulsion.

Some info about surf

Anybody wanna surf...

Almost anyone can learn how to surf. Surfing is an enjoyable sport which can be relaxing or competitive, depending on what you’re looking for. You don’t need a whole lot of equipment to surf, but what you do need can be expensive. If you’re not certain that surfing is the sport for you, you may want to rent your surfing gear before plunking down the money to buy a board. Most surf shops can set you up with a board, as well as a wetsuit or rash guard, if necessary.

A surfboard is the most important piece of surfing gear you’ll need. As a beginner just learning how to surf, it’s best to start with longboard surfing, which uses a surfboard that’s wider at the nose (front of the board) and tail (back of the board) than a traditional short board. A longboard is generally at least nine feet long and has a rounded nose. Longboard surfing is great for beginners because the board floats much better than a short board, and it’s easier to catch waves. If you’ll be renting your surfing gear, you’ll probably be given a long, soft surfboard, which is difficult to break or hurt someone else with. Like a longboard, this will have a rounded nose.

Most surfers these days use a leash, which keeps the surfer and the surfboard connected. A leash should be a little longer than the surfboard, and you should secure it around the ankle that will be toward the back of the surfboard. Although a leash can keep a surfboard from becoming loose and hitting someone else in the water (or being dashed to bits on rocks), it can also be dangerous. It is possible for a leash to become tangled around underwater rocks or other obstacles, which can prevent you from safely reaching the surface. For this reason, look for a leash with a safety release.

Wax is the cheapest piece of surfing gear you’ll need, although you may need to buy it often. Wax gets applied to the top (deck) of your surfboard in small circles. You want the wax to be textured to help you stay on the board. You can also use traction, which sticks onto your surfboard deck and reduces the amount of wax you’ll have to buy.

Wakeboarding basic tips

Just another tips on Wakeboarding

The best way to learn how to wakeboard is to start slowly taking a single step at a time which will prove safer and surer than trying to become an expert in one go, and thus end up with broken bones in the bargain. Try just jumping the wake first before you try to flip over it.

Another important piece of equipment that you must always have on when you start to learn how to wakeboard is a life jacket. You must never be without a life jacket because it will prevent you from drowning should a wave suddenly strike you down, or when you lose your balance and are dunked into the water.

If you haven’t ever participated in water sports water can be like hitting concrete if you are going fast enough. If you hit your head hard enough and are knocked out, without a life jacket you will drown. A life jacket will also make you more visible to other boats in the water so you don’t get run over. A helmet may not be a bad idea either.

To get up on a wakeboard you need to have the board perpendicular to the boat, unlike waterskiing where your ski(s) are facing the boat. As the boat pulls forward hang on to the rope with a little bit of a bend in your elbow. Literally let the boat pull you out of the water.

As it pulls you up straighten the board bend your knees slightly and you are on your way. You will probably fall a few times, but that is part of learning how to do anything. After a few falls I think that you will get it. Just don’t give up because you are frustrated.

Choosing between canoe and kayak

Canoe or Kayak...which one

With kayaks and canoes, you can skim across the water with the grace of a swan, or dart around a pond to get a duck’s-eye view of the world. Unlike other forms of boating, canoes and kayaks bring you close to the water, and their enhanced maneuverability makes it easy to explore.

Canoeing and kayaking will open up a whole new world to you. It’s a fun activity, it takes place in attractive surroundings, it’s inexpensive and easily accessible—you can throw a canoe or kayak on the roof of your car and be launching in a local waterway 15 minutes after getting home from work.

The canoe is probably more familiar to most people, practically the only choice for traveling inland waterways since the Indians made their first birchbark boats. Paddled with a short, single-bladed paddle from a kneeling or high-sitting position, they generally can carry bigger loads and more passengers.

Kayaks, on the other hand, are propelled with a long double-bladed paddle from a low-seated position. Because of this, they are actually more stable, as a general rule, than canoes.And because one’s weight and center of gravity are so low, you can actually rock a kayak quite violently with your hips without any chance of capsizing, as long as you relax and keep your upper body vertical.

Give it a try.